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A - Z of Fabrics

A – Z of Fabrics

Acrylic Fibre

An artificial fibre containing nitrite

 

 

Azoic dyes

Mostly used in Batik work, they are ‘cold dyes’ containing the azoic group

 

 

Basic dyes

These contain basic amino group and t heir use is in natural cellulosic fibre in an alkaline dye bath

 

 

Bath

It’s a basic solution, where a chemical process is carried out

 

 

Basket Weave

Its also called matt weave

 

 

Blanket

It’s a heavy fabric having a raised finish

 

 

Blending

The term means mixing of different firbre in a specified proportion so as to get advantages in the end result accruing from the properties of the blended fabrics

 

 

Bleaching

A chemical process undertaken for improving the whiteness of a fabric, yarn or a fibre (retaining the natural colour)

 

 

Bleeding

When a fabric looses it colour when in contact with a solvent

 

 

Blinding

This happens when the lustre of textiles is removed

 

 

Blind stitch

BouAn invisible stictch n the fabric face of the garment

 

 

Boucle

A yarn which has tight loops formed across it length

 

 

Brighteners

These are chemical constituents which when added to detergents increase  the brightness of the fabric

 

 

Brocade

Used extensively for silk saris, this fabric has very exquisite effects by using satin weaves against a plain weave background

 

 

Brushing

The end result of this finishing processs is a raised effect, it involves passing the fabric over two or more brushes

 

 

Calendaring

It’s a finishing process for promoting smoothness and shine to a fabric texture

 

 

Contemporary

Currently in vogue

 

 

Cool Colours

Blue, Violet and Green are regarded as cool colours

 

 

Calico

A plain weave cotton fabric having a medium cover factor

 

 

Cambric

A  light weight closely woven fabric (cottons or iinen)

 

 

Chambray

A light net plain weave of cotton.  A blend of synthetic yarn

 

 

Checks

A pattern made up of squares

 

 

Cavalry twill

A warp faced heavy weight fabric having double twill lines separated by grooves. 

 

 

Colour Fastness

The property of which the dyed material has resistance against bleeding on washed or exposed to light, gas , rubbing

 

 

Combed Yarn

A yarn with carded or combed slivers

 

 

Composite Yarn

This yarn is made of both staple and filament fibres

 

 

Cord

A general term used for (a) plied (b) cabled yarns and structures

 

 

Corduroy

Cut pile having cords or ribs in the warp direction e.g. cut velveteen fabrics

 

 

Cotton

Natural vegetable fibre obtained from seed hair of plants of the gossipyum family

 

 

Curing

The process of the setting of resin or plastic

 

 

Count

The ratio of yarn or a fibre’s weight to its length

 

 

Count of cloth

The number of pics per inch/cm and ends per inch/cm in the cloth

 

 

Direct dyes

Dyes made of vegetable fibres

 

 

Disperse dyes

Dyes used only for synthetic fabrics

 

 

Drill

A twill weave piece dyed fabric, it is usually made in 0.7m width

 

 

Discharge (Printing)

A method employed in printing whereby applying
a chemical substance on the specific areas of a dyed fabric, the dye removed or discharged leaving a white pattern behind

 

 

Dupion

A fabric woven from imitation silk (artificial silk)

 

 

Elastic Fabric

A fabric having extendable properties

 

 

Embossing

A method whereby a raised or depressed image is achieved by passing the fabric  through heated rollers

 

 

Embroidery

A method whereby a decorative pattern was sewn by hand or with a sewing machine, now more  often carried out by computerized control of multi head embroidery stations

 

 

Embroidery Lace

Embroidery on lace material

 

 

Fabric

The term used to describe all materials whether they be made of fibres, yarns, lace etc

Fastness

The resistance a material provides the agent

 

 

Filament

An artificial lengthy and continuous fibre

 

 

Finishing

The Treatment given to a fabric to9 improve its look and texturing properties

 

 

Forte of a garment

The strongest point of a garment

 

 

Fray

When handling some fabrics – the threads are come loose and ‘ fray’

 

 

Gaberdine

A worsted fabric with a prominent twill face

 

 

Georgette

Fine Crepe fabric with an alternative twisted tarn

 

 

Fad

A term used for short term fashion trends

 

 

Grain

A synomyn fof the lengthwise (yarn) and cross-wise (warp yarn) threads of a fabric

 

 

Hosiery

Stockings

 

 

Haute Couture

Hi fashion garments

 

 

Hue

The shade and degrees of colour

 

 

Imitation Velvet

Plain weave with small tufts of fibres joined by adhesive

 

 

Interlining

A woven or non woven fabric layer between an inner and outer cloth wall to give insulation and shape

 

 

Jacquard

A fabric created by a weaving machine that produces intricate patterns

 

 

Jersey

A plain knit fabric

 

 

Lace

Open work fabric

 

 

Lawn

A thin and light cotton fabric

 

 

Lustre

The gloss of textiles

 

 

Non woven

Fabric from a web of fibres held together by various methods other than felting, colouring or interweaving

 

 

Organdy

A fine stiff cotton fabric

 

 

Polyamide

Polymerized product of alcohol and acids

 

 

Poplin

A plain weave fabric with ribbed effect

 

 

Press Mark

Undesirable shiny lines on the right side of the garment due to incorrect ironing

 

 

Pucker

Drawn up into folds

 

 

Raw Silk

Silk that comes form a silk worm cocoon with a small twist in the thread

 

 

Screenprinting

A method whereby water based or plastic ink is forced through different sizes of mesh

 

 

Seam Line

The line that shows where the seam should be stitched

 

 

Silhouette

An outline of a garment

 

 

Spun Silk

Silk yarn from a short filament

 

 

Suede Cloth

A finish that resembles chamois leather

 

 

Staple

The average length of a fibre

 

 

Surface Decoration

Ornamental application to a fabric or garment

 

 

Tafetta

Plain closely woven filament fabric

 

 

Tapestry

Yarn dyed figured fabric in jacquard loom

 

 

 

 

Taper

To decrease width gradually and bring it to an end point

 

 

Thread Count

The number of warp and weft yarns on the square inch of a fabric (warp yarn x weft yarn per sq inch)

 

 

Trend

Fashion is not static – it is constantly dynamic and moves in a definite direction.   The direction that fashion moves is a direction

 

 

Trim

To cut off the ragged edges below the seam line to prevent the garment from being bulky and to give the seam a neat finish

 

 

Terylene

A synethtic polyester fibre

 

 

Tweed

A rough fabric of wiry heavy wools  invented by the English

 

 

Twill Weave

Weft interlaced with warp to form diagonal wedges

 

 

Velour

A cut pile fabric heavier than velvet, longer piles with fine

 

 

Warm Colours

Colours like red, orange and yellow are classified as warm colours

 

 

Worsted Fabrics

A fabric manufactured wholly by worsted yarns

 

 

Yarn

A product of substantial length and relatively small cross sections consisting of fibres and/or filaments

 

 

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